I am a sucker for a full skirt. 90% of my closet is comprised of swing skirts and dresses. While on occasion I do love a good pencil skirt or fitted sheath dress. My heart is always drawn towards a full skirt. The floofier the better.
The first piece of clothing I ever made was a circle skirt. I didn’t have a pattern at the time, I used a skirt I already had and really just winged it. I have since learned the proper techniques for sewing a circle skirt, but looking back I wish I had this pattern at the time.
McCall’s M7129 is part of their “Learn to sew for fun” line. A pattern line that is perfect for beginner’s. This pattern in particular gives you tips along the way that most patterns don’t. Like when to finish your seams. Or that you should hang the skirt for 24 hours prior to finishing the hem so that the cut along the bias is able to stretch out ensuring you are able to sew an even hem. These are all tips I learned the hard way through various trials and errors.
The pattern is also great in that there are variations you can make. Each variation is a wrap skirt with the ability to add side seam hidden pockets but the length and fullness changes depending on what view you choose. View A is is a reversible circle skirt that falls just above the knee. The hem is finished with bias binding. View B is a tea length circle skirt finished with a narrow hem. View C is a slightly fitted pencil skirt and View D is a slightly fitted maxi skirt.
I had never made a wrap circle skirt prior to this. The idea was born of necessity when I fell in love with some fabric at Joann’s. Once Fall hit plaid fabric stated popping up everywhere. I am a sucker for plaid so when I stumbled across this reversible fabric that was plaid on one side and houndstooth on the other I had to have it. The fact that the fabric feels like a blanket made me want it even more… wearing this skirt is like going to work in pj’s.
It wasn’t the cheapest fabric at $25 a yard, but I was able to use a 60% off coupon and get it at a decent price. Because this is a wrap skirt it does take a bit more fabric then my typical circle skirt. I used 4 yards for each skirt.
In order to make the skirt reversible using the fabric as it was I finished the seams a bit differently. The side seams were finished similar to a pair of jeans using a felled seam. I did this by sewing the side seams with the standard 5/8” seam allowance. Then folding the raw edge over on itself twice top stitching down the folded side. This allowed for the side seams to be finished without the opposite side showing or having to use bias binding. It also gave a smooth and flat appearance.
The hem was done with bias binding as there would be no way to create a traditional hem without having the plaid show on the houndstooth side or vice versa. Therefore, I sandwiched the fabric between double fold bias binding. In order to add some interest I used one of my sewing machines decorative stitches. The blue binding was my first try with the decorative stitch and I am not in love with how the one I chose turned out. I tried a different stitch on the black binding and am much happier with it.
For the waistband I used some basic cotton broadcloth in a color that matched the bias binding. I was going to use the same fabric the main skirt is made out of but couldn’t decide which pattern I preferred so I decided to leave it be. I made the waistband as the pattern advised only allowing one small change. I used a bound buttonhole foot and stitch to create a button hole on the waistband just behind the left side seam. That way I could neaten the way the ties wrapped around my waist by passing one side through the hole.
I let the skirt stretch for a day before hemming it with the bias tape but the fabric has such a loose weave that it stretched farther after I sewed on the bias tape so the hem kinda smiles… luckily it looks okay when on.
I didn’t put the pockets in as I couldn’t figure out how to keep them hidden and I didn’t want to sew 2 pockets on the front of each side of this skirt. The fabric is thick and I didn’t want to add extra bulk.
I have made this patttern for my mom as well. She’s quite a bit shorter than me (5’4” vs my 5’9”) so I used view A as the length was exactly what she wanted. I used view B for myself so this would hit me at mid calf. My mom’s is not reversible as she couldn’t seem to find another fabric she liked but she did get the hidden side seam pockets. I am kinda jealous about that as I have become so used to having pockets in everything I make that I constantly drop my phone trying to put it in the pocket that does not exist.
Overall, I am really happy with the way this turned out. It’s nice that if my hubby and I go away for a long weekend I don’t have to pack as many outfits. I can wear the skirt houndstooth one day and flip it around to plaid the next day. The self tie waistband also means I can loosen it if we happen to eat a large dinner… because no one should have to say no to carbs because their outfit won’t accommodate all the bread. Of the 4 prints I think the gray plaid side is my favorite, probably because I don’t see that color scheme in plaid often.
In case anyone is curious I have two petticoats on under my skirt to really poof them up. The bottom petticoat is the Malco Modes Zooey in cream. The top one is the canvas underskirt from Pinup Girl Clothing. Like I said earlier I like all the floofiness I can get and this skirt has enough fabric to allow for a very full petticoat.
Have you ever worn a wrap skirt? Was it reversible? What is you favorite type of skirt? Let me know in the comments down below.